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| Growing beautiful roses begins with proper siting and proper planting techniques. Great tips for managing your garden, from initial planning straight through to planting and maintenance. |
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Planting Roses
Growing beautiful roses begins with proper siting and proper planting techniques. The following information describes the first steps in growing healthy and attractive roses.
Submit your comments, tips, or suggestions you'd like to share with other users regarding this article. Reference: Ohio State University Extension Planting Site Planting Time Planting time varies based on how plants are packaged. Bare root roses should be planted in early to mid-spring before the new shoots start to develop. Typically, this will be late March into early April unless soils remain wet. Potted roses can be planted anytime from spring to early fall. Spring planting should be done after danger of killing frost, usually late April to mid-May in Ohio. Plant Selection Plant Preparation Potted plants require little pre-planting attention. Keep plants watered and in a sunny location until they can be planted in the garden. Prune out any damaged, dead or broken stems before planting. Preparing the Soil Most soils, whether clay or sandy, benefit from the addition of organic matter which improves drainage, aeration, and nutrient holding capacity. Spread a two to four inch layer of organic matter on the soil surface. Organic matter sources include compost, rotted manure, leaf mold, peat moss, composted sewage sludge, fine grain potting bark or other source. Then, apply three pounds of superphosphate per 100 square feet to encourage root growth. This is the only nutrient added at planting. Finally, turn the organic matter and superphosphate into the soil with a shovel or garden spade to a depth of 12 inches. If planting a rose in an existing bed, dig out enough soil to form a hole approximately 15 inches deep and 18 inches wide. Mix three ounces of superphosphate and approximately three shovelfuls of organic matter with the soil removed from the hole. This becomes the backfill soil for the new plant. Spacing Follow these general spacing guidelines for best results: Hybrid teas, grandifloras, floribundas 18 to 30 inches Climbers 8 to 12 feet Miniatures 12 to 15 inches Planting Once the soil is prepared, dig a hole approximately 15 inches deep and 18 inches wide. If planting bare root roses, form a small mound of soil in the center of the planting hole. See diagram. Then, set the plant on the peak of the mound and spread the roots down the sides. Begin filling the hole with the prepared soil mixture making sure that the graft union or "knob" on the plant is just above ground level, which allows for some settling. Carefully work the soil mixture around and over each root. Add water to settle the soil around the roots and finish filling the hole. Once set, mound the canes with an additional four to six inches of soil to prevent withering of the canes before the roots become established. Once the new shoots begin to develop and the danger of frost is past, remove this soil slowly, over a week's time. If planting a potted plant, remove it from its container and hold it in the hole so the top of the soil ball is at ground level. A common problem is planting too deep; make sure the plant is placed at the same depth it was previously growing in the container. Fill the hole with the prepared soil mixture. Water the plant well to allow the backfilled soil to settle around the root ball. Add more soil if necessary. After Care Mulching is recommended after planting. Apply a two-inch layer of mulch to reduce water loss from evaporation during the summer months. Mulch also increases the organic matter content of the soil, moderates soil temperature, and suppresses weed growth.
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| Data Source: Ohio State University Extension. Articles and resource may contain pesticide recommendations that are subject to change at any time. These recommendations are provided only as a guide and it is always the pesticide applicator's responsibility, by law, to read and follow all current label directions for the specific pesticide being used. |